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zack
I have recently aquired a 4-5 foot ball python snake. Definetly domesticated, I can wrap it around my neck. How often should I feed the snake? What should I feed it? Is it safe to get the snake out 5-6 hours after I feed it? And I am using a Lasko Blowing Heater placed outside the tank blowing on the wall to keep the side of the cage warm, is that ok?
Do not worry, i am studying them now. I have over 6 tabs on my brouser right now just about the ball python, and another 10 on snakes overall. I was a 9th grader and my Biology teacher desperately needed to get rid of ti, and I had been getting the snake out near everyday and carrying it around the school, so he came to me, so it was sprung upon me.
@kouneli - Thanks for the input!
@lily - I dont plan on getting rid of it anytime soon, It is definetly something I want to expereince!
@River - From what he told me, its purebred from a imported snake!
Also, do you have to have a permit to own a Ball Python?
@ADAMANT - Not to be rude, but it looks like you copied your text from wikipedia, as what I am reading is set up exactly like what you said. And as your resource, you said 2 and a half decades, how you talk there is no way your 25 years old, or older, since you havent been handling snakes since you were born.
Answer
Royal or ball pythons are one of the most easiest snakes to care for. All you need is a 10 gallon tank (for a baby, over 2.5-3ft ft should be in one no less than 30 gallons) a heat pad for under the tank, a red light (red or blue is best for nocturnal snakes like ball pythons) substrate 2-3 inches covering bottom so snake can burrow, a hiding spot, a water dish big enough to soak in but heavy enough to not be tipped and various rocks/driftwood for decoration and to rub against to aid in shedding. Ball pythons are ground snakes so you don't need lots of things for climbing so a long shorter tank will work best. Humidity should be at 50% to 60% but higher when the snake is shedding. Hydrometers can tell you the tanks humidity levels. When in shedding, try putting a plastic container large enough for to fit, in your cage. Cut a hole in the lid and put in damp paper towel to make a cheap humidity box. Also, dry bathing your snake in lukewarm water for 15 minutes a day. The larger the water dish, the more humidity you will get. Placing the water dish in a warm area (over under tank heat pad or under light) of the enclosure can increase the effects. You can decrease this by covering half, but no more than that, of the cage top with some water proof material. Plexiglass, and wet towels have been used. By covering the top of the cage on the side where you have the water dish, you will greatly increase the efficiency of your setup. The best way to help keep your cage at the proper humidity levels is to spray the cage once or twice a day with room temperature water. Lightly mist the entire enclosure, including substrate and cage walls. The substrate that you use in your enclosure can significantly effect the humidity in the cage. If you want to increase and maintain higher levels of humidity try using orchid bark,cypress mulch coconut musk, various mosses. Pine and cedar shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating and they contain chemicals that cause respiratory and other problems. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. 79F to 85F degrees during the day, with a basking spot of 85F to 90F. At night, heat should drop no lower than 72 F. Tank should be split from hot side to cool side. Two hiding spot at each end is best so your snake won't have to choose between shelter and comfort.Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" (2.5 cm) above the enclosure floor, and the other 1" (2.5 cm) above the floor in the basking area. Don't try to guess the temperature - you will either end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating. All pythons, especially ball pythons, are very susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. A half-log is available at pet stores (Do not use pine or cedar) An empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Ball pythons prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also like to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make too big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your ball will enjoy hanging out in the "tree." Ball pythons (depending on age and size) generally need one adult mouse a week; if you have a bigger snake you can try feeding it a size appropriate rat or a couple mice in one feeding. If you have a younger, smaller snake, feed it size appropriate mice every 7-10 days.Generally, ball pythons tend to eat bigger meals when they are fully grown but don't need to eat as often. You can try frozen, pre killed or live mice. Feed snake in a seperate container and not it's habitat. If mouse isn't eaten after 20 minutes, try again later. If you are having problems with feeding, try googleing ball python feeding options.Some snakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten. Some pythons refuse to eat domestic mice and must be fed feeder lizards, which can be bought online or in some pet shops. Do NOT leave snake and mouse unattended, mouse could attack and kill your snake. It only takes ONE correctly placed bite to kill your snake.
Royal or ball pythons are one of the most easiest snakes to care for. All you need is a 10 gallon tank (for a baby, over 2.5-3ft ft should be in one no less than 30 gallons) a heat pad for under the tank, a red light (red or blue is best for nocturnal snakes like ball pythons) substrate 2-3 inches covering bottom so snake can burrow, a hiding spot, a water dish big enough to soak in but heavy enough to not be tipped and various rocks/driftwood for decoration and to rub against to aid in shedding. Ball pythons are ground snakes so you don't need lots of things for climbing so a long shorter tank will work best. Humidity should be at 50% to 60% but higher when the snake is shedding. Hydrometers can tell you the tanks humidity levels. When in shedding, try putting a plastic container large enough for to fit, in your cage. Cut a hole in the lid and put in damp paper towel to make a cheap humidity box. Also, dry bathing your snake in lukewarm water for 15 minutes a day. The larger the water dish, the more humidity you will get. Placing the water dish in a warm area (over under tank heat pad or under light) of the enclosure can increase the effects. You can decrease this by covering half, but no more than that, of the cage top with some water proof material. Plexiglass, and wet towels have been used. By covering the top of the cage on the side where you have the water dish, you will greatly increase the efficiency of your setup. The best way to help keep your cage at the proper humidity levels is to spray the cage once or twice a day with room temperature water. Lightly mist the entire enclosure, including substrate and cage walls. The substrate that you use in your enclosure can significantly effect the humidity in the cage. If you want to increase and maintain higher levels of humidity try using orchid bark,cypress mulch coconut musk, various mosses. Pine and cedar shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating and they contain chemicals that cause respiratory and other problems. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. 79F to 85F degrees during the day, with a basking spot of 85F to 90F. At night, heat should drop no lower than 72 F. Tank should be split from hot side to cool side. Two hiding spot at each end is best so your snake won't have to choose between shelter and comfort.Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" (2.5 cm) above the enclosure floor, and the other 1" (2.5 cm) above the floor in the basking area. Don't try to guess the temperature - you will either end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating. All pythons, especially ball pythons, are very susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. A half-log is available at pet stores (Do not use pine or cedar) An empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Ball pythons prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also like to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make too big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your ball will enjoy hanging out in the "tree." Ball pythons (depending on age and size) generally need one adult mouse a week; if you have a bigger snake you can try feeding it a size appropriate rat or a couple mice in one feeding. If you have a younger, smaller snake, feed it size appropriate mice every 7-10 days.Generally, ball pythons tend to eat bigger meals when they are fully grown but don't need to eat as often. You can try frozen, pre killed or live mice. Feed snake in a seperate container and not it's habitat. If mouse isn't eaten after 20 minutes, try again later. If you are having problems with feeding, try googleing ball python feeding options.Some snakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten. Some pythons refuse to eat domestic mice and must be fed feeder lizards, which can be bought online or in some pet shops. Do NOT leave snake and mouse unattended, mouse could attack and kill your snake. It only takes ONE correctly placed bite to kill your snake.
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